Red light therapy was once only available as part of a professional skin treatment. Nowadays, a range of at-home devices—such as light-emitting face masks, handheld wands and light panels, have made it accessible to all.
Adding to the hype is a flood of celebrities and ‘normal’ folk alike showing themselves using red light therapy on social media. But before you jump on the bandwagon, it’s important to clue up on how it works, the benefits, and risks.
Traditional lasers, like intense pulsed light (IPL), are absorbed rapidly through the skin and cause localised damage to trigger a healing reaction. Red light therapy works differently.
Red light therapy uses low-level wavelengths (660 nm and 890 nm) of red and near-infrared light. The red LED lights are absorbed by the top layer of skin (the epidermis) and travel into the deeper levels known as the dermis.
Wavelengths from the red light stimulate the skin cells, in particular the mitochondria (the cells’ energy bank). This is where it gets interesting. The increased energy in the cells helps them to function at their greatest level.
The scientific journal Seminars in Cutaneous Medicine and Surgery reports that the benefits of red light therapy include increased production of collagen and elastin, improved circulation and tissue repair.
Sounds pretty good, right?
Red light therapy—also called low-level light therapy (LLLT), cold laser therapy and red LED light therapy—is non-invasive. This has made it a popular choice for those who want to address certain skin concerns or boost their skin health. But is there any evidence to support these claims?
A popular use of red light therapy is for its anti-ageing skin benefits. Some small-scale studies show that red light therapy may improve skin complexion, roughness, collagen and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Meanwhile, a 2019 study published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology found that low level red and infrared LED lights ‘significantly’ increase hyaluronic acid, collagen and elastin in the skin. The authors state: ‘these findings suggest that low level red and infrared light treatments present opportunities for daily, at-home treatments for patients with photoaging and photodamaged skin.’
A study comparing the use of low-wavelength (630 nm) red light therapy with low-wavelength infrared light (890 nm) for people with mild to moderate acne found that acne lesions significantly decreased with the red light only. The authors conclude, ‘Red wavelength is safe and effective for use to treat acne vulgaris.’
Similar studies explore both red and blue LED light in the treatment of acne. The results suggest using either blue or a combination of blue-red light for best results.
Yet, the strength of this evidence is far from robust. A recent study looking at red light therapy for moderate to severe acne found no significant benefit compared with other conventional treatments—such as using an over-the-counter or prescription topical medication like benzoyl peroxide.
Hyperpigmentation refers to areas of the skin that have more pigmentation than other areas, making the skin darker. There are several types of hyperpigmentation. Among the most common are sun spots (caused by UV light) and melasma (thought to be hormone related).
This study showed that near infrared wavelengths (particularly 830 nm) inhibited tyrosinase (an enzyme responsible for melanin production). The authors concluded, ‘light therapy at this wavelength might be a helpful tool for treating patients with hyperpigmentation. Although, we need further experiments to understand all the effects, as well as its safety.’
The truth is, when you look at all the studies (there aren’t many!) in this area the jury is still out on whether red light therapy is effective in the treatment of hyperpigmentation.
Despite which skin benefit you’re seeking, it’s likely you’ll need many treatments for visible results and the effect may not be lasting. As with any treatment, it pays to weigh up both the benefits and the risks.
In short, there’s no definitive proof that red light therapy causes cancer. Links between red light therapy and cancer are somewhat confusing. Some studies imply red light therapy may aid cancer treatment. Other studies suggest it may increase the possibility for skin cancer. Neither theory has been proven or unproven.
What we do know is that ultraviolet (UV) light is a major risk factor for the development of melanoma. Red light therapy does not use UV light. Nor does it heat or burn the skin. However, anyone with a history of skin cancer considering the use of red light therapy should be cautious and seek advice from a healthcare professional.
And in any case, everyone should do a DIY skin check (we recommend every 3 months) and get a regular skin cancer check by a professional.
Red light therapy is generally considered safe and suitable for all skin types. Light is applied to the skin for around 10-30 minutes, with no down time needed. Side effects, if there are any, tend to be minimal – such as mild redness or a slight tingling.
Although there is some evidence (as mentioned before) that red light therapy may be beneficial for the skin, there are a few factors to consider.
Research into the effects of red light therapy is still in its early days. It's not well understood how exactly red light therapy produces therapeutic benefits. What’s more, most studies are small, use animal subjects, or are in vitro (done in a lab using a petri dish or test tube). There are also inconsistencies across the different studies. This includes the specific type and strength of wavelength and treatment timing.
It is important to research any skin treatment, follow the instructions, and check how your skin reacts. If you’re worried about skin cancer, book in for a comprehensive mole check. Want to assess your personal skin cancer risk? Take our quick quiz. Additionally, consider scheduling regular appointments at specialised skin cancer clinics for thorough examinations and peace of mind.
